This is a slightly altered version of a story that came out in Travel Now magazine
For a weekend surfing trip, nothing beats the beaches of San Juan, La
Union
By Paul John Caña
Photos by Portia Carbonell and Paul John Caña
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| Urbiztondo beach in San Juan, La Union is surfing ground zero |
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| Surf's up in San Juan |
Surfers clad in nothing more than
two-piece bikinis and hip-hugging board shorts congregate in The Little Surf
Maid Resort to get some breakfast after riding the waves in San Juan, La Union.
Over steaming heaps of rice, hotdogs and eggs sunny side up, they discuss
technique and form, with the occasional complaint about how the waves aren’t big
enough this time of year. It’s just another day for these regulars in the
Surfing Capital of the Northern Philippines.
Baler may have its diehard fans, but I've never been there, except passing through on the way to Dinadiawan beach. San Juan, on the other, hand feels like a second home. (I even went on a solo trip there recently). Zambales may have San Narciso and
Pundaquit, and Aurora province has a long coastline facing the Pacific Ocean
with numerous surfing possibilities, but I'll argue that Urbiztondo beach in San Juan offers the most consistent
waves ideal for surfing, not to mention a well-entrenched community of surfers
that call this town home. Plus, thanks to the SCTEX and TPLEX, it's only about a five-and-half hour drive from Manila.
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| The quieter side of San Juan beach |
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| San Juan Surf Resort circa 2012. The resort has undergone a major facelift and looks a bit different today |
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| Surf lessons and board rentals that way |
Surfing Lessons
La Union is the gateway to the Ilocos region, and its
capital, San Fernando, is just minutes away from the beaches of San
Juan. Numerous surfing schools and resorts that offer lessons and
surfboard rentals line the stretch of sand from Urbiztondo to Ili Norte. If
you’re making your first trip up North and you’re determined
to get some surf time in, most pro-surfers would recommend hiring an instructor to teach you the basics.
The San Juan Surf Resort operated
by award-winning surfer and part-time model Luke Landrigan is one of the more
popular surfing schools not just in San Juan but in the entire country.
Landrigan, who has racked up numerous awards for his surfing skills,
including the prestigious Lanuza International Longboard Invitational in 2006,
grew up in San Juan and has always been, in his own words, a child of the sea. “Ever
since I could walk, I’ve been in the water,” he says. Since founding his surf
school, he has personally mentored hundreds of amateur surfers (myself included), and the numbers
have only gone up through the years as more and more people discover the
thrills of riding the waves.
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| Me getting my surfer game on |
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| This was the very first time I tried surfing, back in 2008. Luke said I was *ahem* a natural |
The surf season in San Juan is
generally divided into two parts: November to February is the ideal season as
the waves are more consistent due to the typhoons prevalent this time of year.
From July to October, veterans flock to the other parts of the beach in search
of better waves. A few places to check out in the area
are Darigayos, the Urbiztondo Beach Break and a well-known spot known as The
Point.
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| My friends and I all did pretty well our first time to ride the waves. Here's Arnie... |
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| ...Portia even managed a wave... |
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| ...and here's Brix |
Food and Lodging
Longtime surfers tell stories of how, during the early 90s, when San Juan
was only starting to build a reputation as a surfing destination, they would surf the whole day and then spend the night in grassy
makeshift huts as there were no decent overnight accommodations. These days though, you can take your pick from among the resorts that dot the
beach. All generally provide reasonably priced lodgings for tourists, although
the most popular seem to be Landrigan’s San Juan Surf Resort and The Little Surf Maid. If money isn't a concern, try The Big Kahuna, which supposedly provides the most high-end accommodations in the area. While many of the resorts offer surfing lessons and rent out longboards
and other essentials, it’s a good idea to check their rates first and
inquire with a trusted surfing veteran or San Juan local.
As for food, don’t expect the
resorts to serve five-star culinary masterpieces; most just offer stomach
fillers that are a bit too pricey, and there are no restaurants of note worth
mentioning. A good tip though if you want to save on your meals is to check out
the restaurants away from the beach strip and to explore the myriad choices
along the main road and nearer San Fernando. Remember that you’re practically at the
doorstep of Ilocandia, and of course, you have the option of sampling their native cuisine, including authentic Ilocano dishes like their famous longganisa, pinakbet, papaitan and
the sinful bagnet.
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| The obligatory shot |
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| Taking a break |
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| With Luke. You'll know this photo is dated because they tore down that concrete wave at San Juan Surf Resort |
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| A La Union sunset |
GETTING THERE
The best way to travel to San
Juan is by bus. A number of bus companies travel to La Union (and all the way
to the Ilocos provinces) from Manila, with the most popular ones being Partas,
Fariñas and RCJ Transit. A one-way ticket costs around P500. The buses travel
along the national highway just a few steps away from the beach, so you can
actually get off the bus and walk towards the shore.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Resorts in San Juan are
relatively affordable. A standard aircon room good for two persons at the San
Juan Surf Resort (+63 72 7200340) costs around P1000 to P1200, while a bigger room that
can accommodate 4 persons is around P1,350 to P1500. For inquiries and a further listing of their rates, check out their
website <sanjuansurfresort.com>
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