Man On The Side: Lübeck, Germany: Like A Fairy Tale

This story first appeared in the December 2011 issue of Lifestyle Asia magazine

The city of Lübeck enchants visitors with its medieval architecture and mouthwatering marzipan

Written and photographed by Paul John Caña

The Holstentor welcomes visitors to the UNESCO World Heritage town of Lübeck

One of the iron lions in front of the Holstentor

It is possible to circle the Altstadt or old town of Lübeck within a few short hours. The historic city center of the northern German city—the second largest in Schleswig-Holstein state—is an island completely surrounded by the Trave River. The area is compact enough for a leisurely walk that offers visitors a unique glimpse into a town that has existed since the 15th century. Residents have, in fact, posted signs proclaiming it as a “place of short distances.” Even without its status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the town’s long and proud merchant and maritime history, monuments that have survived the test of time, and its incomparable, mouthwatering marzipan, all make Lübeck one of the most fascinating yet underrated towns in all of Germany.

My German friend Marc accompanied me on this trip. Here he is trying to figure out where we're going

Poffertjes are like mini pancake balls, perfect for snacking while sightseeing

Typical architecture in this part of Germany

Most visitors arrive in Lübeck through Hamburg, which is only a 40-minute train ride away. Both cities were members of the Hanseatic League, a powerful organization that monopolized trade in the Baltics and Northern Europe in the 13th to the 17th centuries. It was Lübeck, though, that was nicknamed “Queen of the Hanse,” as it served as the capital of the trade alliance for several centuries.

The most iconic image of Lübeck is also the first structure tourists see on the approach to the old town. The Holstentor is the most significant town gate of the late Middle Ages in Germany, and is the only one still standing in the city today (apart from the less majestic Citadel Gate or Burgtor, in the northern part of town). Its twin pointy-roofed circular tower tilting together across a steeped gable once graced the 50 Deutschemark note.

Constructed between 1464 to 1478 by Architect Himrich Helmstede, the Holstentor is made in the Brick Gothic style and has been heavily restored through the years. Two reclining lions made of iron act as sentinels just in front of a grassy field facing the gate, which now houses a museum. Once in danger of being torn down, the Holstentor has become a symbol of the city, its likeness present in many Lübeck companies’ trademarks. Inscribed on the gate, visible to everyone making their way inside the city proper, is the Latin phrase “concordia domi, foris pax,” which roughly translates to “harmony within, peace abroad.”

How could I resist?

A plaza in Lübeck

Lübeck was one of the first cities hit by Allied forces during the Second World War. Many of the original structures in the city were destroyed or damaged during the assault. Like many other cities in Germany, reconstruction happened gradually over the years. A stroll down the main street of the Altstadt reveals old buildings beside gleaming new shopping centers and restaurants, a symbol of an increasingly progressive city.

Those looking for the city’s old town charm, however, need only walk in the direction of the Markt (marketplace) in front of the city’s Rathaus (town hall), where medieval architecture is the main draw. The towering Marienkirche or St. Mary’s Church, supposedly the country’s third biggest, overlooks the plaza. A small marker on one side says it was built between 1260 and 1350 and became a model for many other large churches in the Baltic region. The church was completely destroyed in 1942 but restoration work was undertaken soon after and was completed in 1959.

The Gotteskeller is a popular restaurant and bar in Lübeck

There are 7 churches in Lübeck. This one is St. Mary's, if I'm not mistaken. It is the third biggest church in Germany

Beside the Marienkirche is a curious-looking statue of the devil sitting on a huge slab of stone. Townsfolk tell the story of how, when construction first began, the devil thought the people were building a wine bar. He liked the idea because many souls had found their way to him after visiting such a place. He disguised himself as a regular man and helped the workers.

Eventually he realized what the structure was going to be and, in his anger, picked up a boulder to smash the walls already standing. A man implored him to spare the church and promised to build a wine bar somewhere else. The devil was pleased and set the stone down, where it rests to this day. Just opposite the church, the townsfolk did build a wine cellar in the town hall.

Me and the devil, hanging out

There's something creepy about a little girl playing with the statue of the devil

Apart from St. Mary’s, six other church steeples dominate the skyline. This has led to Lübeck being nicknamed “City of the Seven Spires.” Two other must-visits are St. Catherine’s, with impressive terra cotta figures gazing down at pedestrians, and, further downtown, the Lübeck Cathedral, with its twin towers that reach up almost 400 feet into the sky. The other churches are St. Jacob’s, Sacred Heart, St Giles and St. Peter’s.

Impressive terra cotta statues adorn the side of St. Catherine's Church

Marc is dwarfed by St. Catherine's Church

The town has connections to three Nobel Prize winners. Thomas Mann, who won the Literature prize in 1929, was born here in 1875, while Günter Grass, a fellow Literature laureate, is a current resident. Both have houses dedicated to them in Lübeck. The third Nobel Prize winner is Willy Brandt, a German statesman who won the Nobel Peace Prize in 1971. His childhood home is now a museum that stands just behind the Marienkirche.

Quick rest stop

Corner of King Street and Dog Street, with the library that way

One other thing Lübeck is famous for is marzipan, a decadent confection made primarily with sugar and ground almonds. The most famous producer in town, and perhaps the world, is Café Niederegger, which has been in continuous operation for over 200 years. The flagship store near the town center is stocked with marzipan of every imaginable shape and size and is always filled with tourists looking to take some of the sweet treats back home as souvenirs. There is a small museum dedicated to the history of marzipan on the second floor.

Niederegger has almost become synonymous with marzipan

They've been making marzipan treats for over 200 years

My first taste of chocolate-covered Niederegger marzipan

It is not uncommon to see tourists continuing their exploration of the town with a chocolate-covered marzipan in hand. Part of the charm in walking the streets of Lübeck is the discovery of secret courtyards and winding walkways. The brick houses and cobblestone streets combine to create a sense of jumping back in time, to days long gone. A small alleyway, for instance, can lead visitors from a quiet churchyard to the banks of the Trave River, where residents often spread picnic blankets on the grass to enjoy the vestiges of an idyllic autumn afternoon.

Lübeck Cathedral

Hanging out by the Trave River

A serene snapshot of a typical Lübeck afternoon

Park yourself by the river with some drinks and watch the world go by

Because the river surrounds the town, visitors who follow its meandering course will invariably end up back at the Holstentor. When evening falls, the town takes on an even more fairy-tale like atmosphere, with strategically placed lights that illuminate the gate, inviting guests to experience the magic of Lübeck once more.