Anyone with an appreciation for the arts will no doubt find a trip to Angono, Rizal worth his or her paintbrush and easel. The municipality, which lies just 30 kilometers east of the bustling metropolis, is famous for bearing the moniker “Art Capital of the Philippines,” and for good reason. At least two acclaimed National Artists called this place home: painter and muralist Carlos “Botong” Francisco and composer Lucio San Pedro. Numerous art galleries, breathtaking natural wonders and eating places that serve exotic and exquisite cuisine all make Angono an ideal destination for a relatively quick daytime excursion.
November is the best month to visit Angono; the 23rd to be precise. This is when the entire town comes alive with the annual Higantes Festival, the world-renowned fiesta held in honor of their patron saint San Clemente. But if you can’t make the trip on that exact date, don’t fret. Any day is a good day to visit Angono (especially since it’s so near Metro Manila).
Because it is a flourishing art town, no visit would be complete without checking out the numerous galleries and museums that feature works of contemporary local artists. Start your tour with the Nemiranda Arthouse and Museum (located at Doña Justa Subdivision), owned by painter and champion of the Angono arts scene, Nemi Miranda. The Museum houses his own private collection of paintings and artworks, as well as serving as a venue for exhibits and other art-related activities. Sip a cup of coffee at the coffee shop and, if you’re lucky, you just might bump into Nemiranda himself and get to chat with him about local art history, his affinity with the town and hear his stories about the great Botong Francisco.
Your next stop is the Blanco Family Museum (312 Ibañez St., Brgy. Sto. Niño). If there is any place in the entire town where you could witness firsthand the vibrant artistry and sheer creativity of its people, it is this place, which houses the artworks of the celebrated Blanco family of painters. Even if you’re only a casual admirer of paintings, the sight of those splendid images, lifelike and almost all depicted in the school of Realism, will make you catch your breath and appreciate the sheer genius that runs in this family of artists, and by extension, the people of Angono. One cannot help but wonder what it is in the air of this Rizal town that breeds an artistic eye. At least in Angono, the artist gene seems to be as hereditary as the color of one’s hair and skin.
For lunch, one cannot afford to miss the dining experience offered by the Balaw-Balaw Restaurant. Named after a local sauce made out of fermented shrimp, gruel and red rice, the restaurant has been featured in countless magazines, newspapers and TV programs, so much so that it is practically an institution in the Angono cultural scene. For the foodie with an iron stomach, a serving of snake, bayawak, frogs’ legs and deer meat shouldn’t be a problem. Of course, for those with more modest fancies, Balaw-Balaw also serves your regular Pinoy food fare, like kare-kare, sinigang and fried tilapia. Enjoy the food, the atmosphere and the relaxing strains of a guitar trio as they serenade you with contemporary love songs.
After all that chow, try to work off the excess calories by walking to the adjacent Ang Nuno museum. Marvel at the Higantes staring at you from their home the rest of the 364 days of the year, waiting for that one day when they would be let out once again to become the stars of the annual fiesta. If you’re not suffering from art exhaustion yet, check out the works of the artist and founder of the restaurant, Perdigon Vocalan, who, needless to say, was heavily influenced by Botong Francisco. Besides his paintings, many of which depict women in all their glory and beauty, Vocalan was also an accomplished sculptor, and many of his works are also displayed in a hall of the museum.
You’re gonna need all that extra fuel for a short hike inside the Eastridge Golf Club for a look-see of the ancient Angono Petroglyphs. Discovered by – yet again – Botong Francisco, these amazing human and animal figures are said to date as far back as 3000 BC, which would make them the oldest works of art in the Philippines. (No surprise then that they’re found in the art capital of the country). Although not currently recognized by the National Historical Institute, these inscriptions have been declared a national cultural treasure by the government, and its preservation and development are overseen by the National Museum of the Philippines, The Department of Tourism, World Monuments Fund and various other civic and community organizations.
After the requisite picture-taking to post on your social networking site and show-off to your friends, you can motor off to one more artists’ space before calling it a day. The Tiamson Art Gallery is owned by Orville DR Tiamson, a respected painter, musician and multimedia artist. As a painter, he is a student of the cubist’s style popularized by Vicente Manansala. He has also experimented on various other styles and media, including drawings on paper, installations and performances.
On your way back home, try to pass by the cemetery to pay tribute to the town’s two National Artists. It won’t take you very long because the tombs of Francisco and San Pedro lie next to each other. Try to walk down the length of Doña Aurora Street going to San Clemente church, where you can appreciate the murals that line the street, the final, most striking testament to the town’s rich artistic heritage. And if you’re in the mood for pasalubong, pass by the munisipyo and buy fried itik (but be sure to reheat it in oil when you get home; it’s just not that good when it’s not hot and steaming).
Travel Notes
How to Get There:
The municipality of Angono is located at the northeast tip of Laguna de Bay. Just ask the taxi to take you there. FX services and jeepneys also have regular routes to Angono.
Balaw-Balaw Restaurant
16 Dona Justa St.,
Dona Justa Subdivision, Angono, Rizal
(63 2) 651 0110
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