Wednesday, April 22, 2015

Interview with Augustana's Dan Layus

Augustana: “I Didn’t Know How Pivotal ‘Boston’ Would Be In My Life
The band behind the modern classic “Boston” is coming to Manila for the first time to play at this year’s Wanderland Music Festival


Image from popcrush.com
If you know Augustana then you know “Boston.” The American rock band invaded the airwaves exactly 10 years ago with their mournful but strangely comforting song about anguish and self-discovery.

The band has released four albums and a few other singles, including the equally lush “Sweet and Low,” and the tender “Steal Your Heart.” Driven by frontman Dan Layus’ warm and warbly vocals, they kept pace with the rock-alternative sound of the early 2000s, alongside other similar acts like Switchfoot, The Fray, Dashboard Confessional and others.

Augustana is one of the featured acts in this year’s Wanderland Music Festival, which will be held on April 25, 2015 at the Globe Circuit Event Grounds in Makati City. The festival will also feature headline act Kid Cudi, RAC, The Jungle Giants, Lewis Watson, Youngblood Hawke, plus local acts led by Hale, Kate Torralba, The Strange Creatures, Sinyma and many others. 

Here’s an exclusive interview with Layus, who is the sole remaining original member of the band. Excerpts:

Where are you now and what can you see outside your window?
Dan Layus: I'm currently at home in Tennessee. I can see the snow from the last winter storm out the window, most of it is thawing out. Spring feels like it's coming soon.

Please tell us your earliest musical memories. What sort of music did you listen to as a kid? 
DL: I have always loved music as long as I can remember, I don't remember many specifics before middle school but I do remember really turning into a real music lover in my high school years.

You play a lot of instruments. Which one did you learn first and do you remember the first song you learned to play on it was?
DL: The first song I ever learned to play and perform on guitar was Nirvana’s “Smells Like Teen Spirit.” I played it at my 6th Grade talent show, without bothering trying to sing, just guitar.

I think people will always have a soft spot for your song "Boston." It's still very popular over here. I know it’s been a while, but could you talk about the song's beginnings? Did you know then that there was something pretty unique and special about it?
DL: The song was written very early in my time in college. I remember very little about the actual process other than it came very easily and very naturally. I didn't know at that time just how incredibly pivotal that song would be in my life. Even now I'm hearing of younger generations discovering the song and I couldn't be more excited and honored that the song has connected with such a wide audience for so many years now.

You're pretty much a solo act now but still carry the name Augustana. Was this a conscious decision? How much different do you think Augustana is now with how it was as a full band?
DL: I still for tour for the most part with a full band, however they are not the original lineup that started in 2003. I treasure those many years with my partners in the band and know they remember many great times as well. I felt it was unnecessary to change the name or go in a different direction with what I was doing, mostly because the material I was and am still writing just feels like "AUGUSTANA" to me. I know many fans out there hold the name and the music close to their hearts and memories, as do I.


Image from galleryhip.com
I think you have one of the most distinctive singing voices around. How protective are you of your voice? I mean, do you have a careful regimen? (No cold drinks, smoking, etc?)
DL: I find that singing more often seems to keep me in better vocal shape. The first week of a tour can be hard for me to get back in the groove with the longer sets of music, but come week 2 to 3...I begin to feel more strength and resilience after time.

Tell us about your songwriting process. How does a song start?
DL: Sometimes I deliberately take time out of the day or night to work on a song or write something (melody/lyric etc) and sometimes it just hits me while I'm doing something completely normal at any random moment of the day or night.

Which musician/band are you a fan of and would follow around on tour if you could?
DL: I'm a fan of all kinds of music. I've been listening to a lot of classic country as well as a lot of 80's alternative music, like Tears for Fears, New Order, A-Ha, Depeche Mode. I also like some newer cuts from artists like Empire of the Sun, The Presets...etc.

You're coming to the Philippines to play at Wanderland. Have you been here before? Anything you're looking forward to seeing/ experiencing while you're here?
DL: I've never been to the Philippines before and couldn't be more excited or enthusiastic to see the city of Manila and play this show. 

Sunday, April 19, 2015

Surfing in La Union

This is a slightly altered version of a story that came out in Travel Now magazine

For a weekend surfing trip, nothing beats the beaches of San Juan, La Union

By Paul John Caña
Photos by Portia Carbonell and Paul John Caña

Urbiztondo beach in San Juan, La Union is surfing ground zero


Surf's up in San Juan
Surfers clad in nothing more than two-piece bikinis and hip-hugging board shorts congregate in The Little Surf Maid Resort to get some breakfast after riding the waves in San Juan, La Union. Over steaming heaps of rice, hotdogs and eggs sunny side up, they discuss technique and form, with the occasional complaint about how the waves aren’t big enough this time of year. It’s just another day for these regulars in the Surfing Capital of the Northern Philippines.

Baler may have its diehard fans, but I've never been there, except passing through on the way to Dinadiawan beach. San Juan, on the other, hand feels like a second home. (I even went on a solo trip there recently). Zambales may have San Narciso and Pundaquit, and Aurora province has a long coastline facing the Pacific Ocean with numerous surfing possibilities, but I'll argue that Urbiztondo beach in San Juan offers the most consistent waves ideal for surfing, not to mention a well-entrenched community of surfers that call this town home. Plus, thanks to the SCTEX and TPLEX, it's only about a five-and-half hour drive from Manila. 

The quieter side of San Juan beach


San Juan Surf Resort circa 2012. The resort has undergone a major facelift and looks a bit different today
Surf lessons and board rentals that way
Surfing Lessons
La Union is the gateway to the Ilocos region, and its capital, San Fernando, is just minutes away from the beaches of San Juan. Numerous surfing schools and resorts that offer lessons and surfboard rentals line the stretch of sand from Urbiztondo to Ili Norte. If you’re making your first trip up North and you’re determined to get some surf time in, most pro-surfers would recommend hiring an instructor to teach you the basics.

The San Juan Surf Resort operated by award-winning surfer and part-time model Luke Landrigan is one of the more popular surfing schools not just in San Juan but in the entire country. Landrigan, who has racked up numerous awards for his surfing skills, including the prestigious Lanuza International Longboard Invitational in 2006, grew up in San Juan and has always been, in his own words, a child of the sea. “Ever since I could walk, I’ve been in the water,” he says. Since founding his surf school, he has personally mentored hundreds of amateur surfers (myself included), and the numbers have only gone up through the years as more and more people discover the thrills of riding the waves.

Me getting my surfer game on


This was the very first time I tried surfing, back in 2008. Luke said I was *ahem* a natural 
The surf season in San Juan is generally divided into two parts: November to February is the ideal season as the waves are more consistent due to the typhoons prevalent this time of year. From July to October, veterans flock to the other parts of the beach in search of better waves. A few places to check out in the area are Darigayos, the Urbiztondo Beach Break and a well-known spot known as The Point.

While tourists looking to try surfing on a longboard are the most frequent visitors to San Juan, casual beachgoers looking to just swim and sunbathe are also welcome. The sand is a bit coarse and is a dark tan color, but it’s not uncommon to see sun worshippers spread out along the beach checking out the action offshore.

My friends and I all did pretty well our first time to ride the waves. Here's Arnie...


...Portia even managed a wave...


...and here's Brix

Food and Lodging
Longtime surfers tell stories of how, during the early 90s, when San Juan was only starting to build a reputation as a surfing destination, they would surf the whole day and then spend the night in grassy makeshift huts as there were no decent overnight accommodations. These days though, you can take your pick from among the resorts that dot the beach. All generally provide reasonably priced lodgings for tourists, although the most popular seem to be Landrigan’s San Juan Surf Resort and The Little Surf Maid. If money isn't a concern, try The Big Kahuna, which supposedly provides the most high-end accommodations in the area. While many of the resorts offer surfing lessons and rent out longboards and other essentials, it’s a good idea to check their rates first and inquire with a trusted surfing veteran or San Juan local.

As for food, don’t expect the resorts to serve five-star culinary masterpieces; most just offer stomach fillers that are a bit too pricey, and there are no restaurants of note worth mentioning. A good tip though if you want to save on your meals is to check out the restaurants away from the beach strip and to explore the myriad choices along the main road and nearer San Fernando. Remember that you’re practically at the doorstep of Ilocandia, and of course, you have the option of sampling their native cuisine, including authentic Ilocano dishes like their famous longganisa, pinakbet, papaitan and the sinful bagnet.



The obligatory shot


Taking a break



With Luke. You'll know this photo is dated because they tore down that concrete wave at San Juan Surf Resort

I've since lost count how many times I've been back to San Juan. For a quick weekend beach getaway, it's always at or near the top of my list and should be on yours, too.

A La Union sunset
GETTING THERE
The best way to travel to San Juan is by bus. A number of bus companies travel to La Union (and all the way to the Ilocos provinces) from Manila, with the most popular ones being Partas, Fariñas and RCJ Transit. A one-way ticket costs around P500. The buses travel along the national highway just a few steps away from the beach, so you can actually get off the bus and walk towards the shore.

ACCOMMODATIONS
Resorts in San Juan are relatively affordable. A standard aircon room good for two persons at the San Juan Surf Resort (+63 72 7200340) costs around P1000 to P1200, while a bigger room that can accommodate 4 persons is around P1,350 to P1500. For inquiries and a further listing of their rates, check out their website <sanjuansurfresort.com>    




Sunday, March 29, 2015

Lübeck, Germany: Like A Fairy Tale

This story first appeared in the December 2011 issue of Lifestyle Asia magazine
 
The city of Lübeck enchants visitors with its medieval architecture and mouthwatering marzipan

Written and photographed by Paul John Caña


The Holstentor welcomes visitors to the UNESCO World Heritage town of Lübeck

One of the iron lions in front of the Holstentor
It is possible to circle the Altstadt or old town of Lübeck within a few short hours. The historic city center of the northern German city—the second largest in Schleswig-Holstein state—is an island completely surrounded by the Trave River. The area is compact enough for a leisurely walk that offers visitors a unique glimpse into a town that has existed since the 15th century. Residents have, in fact, posted signs proclaiming it as a “place of short distances.” Even without its status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the town’s long and proud merchant and maritime history, monuments that have survived the test of time, and its incomparable, mouthwatering marzipan, all make Lübeck one of the most fascinating yet underrated towns in all of Germany.

My German friend Marc accompanied me on this trip. Here he is trying to figure out where we're going

Poffertjes are like mini pancake balls, perfect for snacking while sightseeing

Typical architecture in this part of Germany
Most visitors arrive in Lübeck through Hamburg, which is only a 40-minute train ride away. Both cities were members of the Hanseatic League, a powerful organization that monopolized trade in the Baltics and Northern Europe in the 13th to the 17th centuries. It was Lübeck, though, that was nicknamed “Queen of the Hanse,” as it served as the capital of the trade alliance for several centuries. 

The most iconic image of Lübeck is also the first structure tourists see on the approach to the old town. The Holstentor is the most significant town gate of the late Middle Ages in Germany, and is the only one still standing in the city today (apart from the less majestic Citadel Gate or Burgtor, in the northern part of town). Its twin pointy-roofed circular tower tilting together across a steeped gable once graced the 50 Deutschemark note. 

Constructed between 1464 to 1478 by Architect Himrich Helmstede, the Holstentor is made in the Brick Gothic style and has been heavily restored through the years. Two reclining lions made of iron act as sentinels just in front of a grassy field facing the gate, which now houses a museum. Once in danger of being torn down, the Holstentor has become a symbol of the city, its likeness present in many Lübeck companies’ trademarks. Inscribed on the gate, visible to everyone making their way inside the city proper, is the Latin phrase “concordia domi, foris pax,” which roughly translates to “harmony within, peace abroad.”

How could I resist?

A plaza in Lübeck
Lübeck was one of the first cities hit by Allied forces during the Second World War. Many of the original structures in the city were destroyed or damaged during the assault. Like many other cities in Germany, reconstruction happened gradually over the years. A stroll down the main street of the Altstadt reveals old buildings beside gleaming new shopping centers and restaurants, a symbol of an increasingly progressive city. 

Those looking for the city’s old town charm, however, need only walk in the direction of the Markt (marketplace) in front of the city’s Rathaus (town hall), where medieval architecture is the main draw. The towering Marienkirche or St. Mary’s Church, supposedly the country’s third biggest, overlooks the plaza. A small marker on one side says it was built between 1260 and 1350 and became a model for many other large churches in the Baltic region. The church was completely destroyed in 1942 but restoration work was undertaken soon after and was completed in 1959.

The Gotteskeller is a popular restaurant and bar in Lübeck

There are 7 churches in Lübeck. This one is St. Mary's, if I'm not mistaken. It is the third biggest church in Germany
Beside the Marienkirche is a curious-looking statue of the devil sitting on a huge slab of stone. Townsfolk tell the story of how, when construction first began, the devil thought the people were building a wine bar. He liked the idea because many souls had found their way to him after visiting such a place. He disguised himself as a regular man and helped the workers. 

Eventually he realized what the structure was going to be and, in his anger, picked up a boulder to smash the walls already standing. A man implored him to spare the church and promised to build a wine bar somewhere else. The devil was pleased and set the stone down, where it rests to this day. Just opposite the church, the townsfolk did build a wine cellar in the town hall.

Me and the devil, hanging out

There's something creepy about a little girl playing with the statue of the devil
Apart from St. Mary’s, six other church steeples dominate the skyline. This has led to Lübeck being nicknamed “City of the Seven Spires.” Two other must-visits are St. Catherine’s, with impressive terra cotta figures gazing down at pedestrians, and, further downtown, the Lübeck Cathedral, with its twin towers that reach up almost 400 feet into the sky. The other churches are St. Jacob’s, Sacred Heart, St Giles and St. Peter’s.

Impressive terra cotta statues adorn the side of St. Catherine's Church

Marc is dwarfed by St. Catherine's Church
The town has connections to three Nobel Prize winners. Thomas Mann, who won the Literature prize in 1929, was born here in 1875, while Günter Grass, a fellow Literature laureate, is a current resident. Both have houses dedicated to them in Lübeck. The third Nobel Prize winner is Willy Brandt, a German statesman who won the Nobel Peace Prize in 1971. His childhood home is now a museum that stands just behind the Marienkirche.

Quick rest stop

Corner of King Street and Dog Street, with the library that way
One other thing Lübeck is famous for is marzipan, a decadent confection made primarily with sugar and ground almonds. The most famous producer in town, and perhaps the world, is Café Niederegger, which has been in continuous operation for over 200 years. The flagship store near the town center is stocked with marzipan of every imaginable shape and size and is always filled with tourists looking to take some of the sweet treats back home as souvenirs. There is a small museum dedicated to the history of marzipan on the second floor. 

Niederegger has almost become synonymous with marzipan

They've been making marzipan treats for over 200 years

My first taste of chocolate-covered Niederegger marzipan
It is not uncommon to see tourists continuing their exploration of the town with a chocolate-covered marzipan in hand. Part of the charm in walking the streets of Lübeck is the discovery of secret courtyards and winding walkways. The brick houses and cobblestone streets combine to create a sense of jumping back in time, to days long gone. A small alleyway, for instance, can lead visitors from a quiet churchyard to the banks of the Trave River, where residents often spread picnic blankets on the grass to enjoy the vestiges of an idyllic autumn afternoon.

Lübeck Cathedral

Hanging out by the Trave River

A serene snapshot of a typical Lübeck afternoon

Park yourself by the river with some drinks and watch the world go by
Because the river surrounds the town, visitors who follow its meandering course will invariably end up back at the Holstentor. When evening falls, the town takes on an even more fairy-tale like atmosphere, with strategically placed lights that illuminate the gate, inviting guests to experience the magic of Lübeck once more. 

The Holstentor all lit up at night

Marc offering me more of those yummy Niederegger marzipan chocolates

We ended a perfect day with this. But of course.