Saturday, December 26, 2020

Cynicism Is Overrated

Sometimes when I’m scrolling through my Twitter or Facebook feed, I often catch myself rolling my eyes at a well-meaning post or scoffing at some piece of good news. When that happens, I immediately think about Conan O’Brien, and his farewell monologue on the Tonight Show. 


Fans of the comedian and late night show host will know and understand this reference, but for those who don’t, here’s the gist: Conan succeeded Jay Leno as the host of America’s beloved late night variety and talk show, but after a few months, network executives wanted to move him to a later time slot in order to make room for Leno, who they were bringing back to host a new show. Rather than give in, Conan chose to step down, letting go of the hosting gig that he’d been dreaming of since he started his career as a comedian. 


Somewhere in Bay, Laguna






But rather than becoming sad and bitter, Conan took the high road and left the show with his integrity and dignity intact. On his last night as Tonight Show host, he delivered a moving speech that I still think about to this day. 


After thanking his home network of NBC—the same network that gave him the shaft and chose Leno over him—Conan urged his viewers and fans not to give in to cynicism.


“To all the people watching, I can never thank you enough for your kindness to me and I’ll think about it for the rest of my life,” he said. “All I ask of you is one thing: please don’t be cynical. I hate cynicism—it’s my least favorite quality and it doesn’t lead anywhere. Nobody in life gets exactly what they thought they were going to get. But if you work really hard and you’re kind, amazing things will happen.”


Abby




As I grow older, I'm beginning to understand why so many old people are bitter, angry, and resentful—it’s just so much easier than choosing to be optimistic, forward-thinking, and grateful. I think I’ve done a good job of maintaining a sense of positivity throughout my life, even though I’ll be the first to admit I went through my own period of self-doubt and distrust of everything and everyone (who doesn’t?). 


This year, especially, has given people more reason to become embittered and to lash out at things. We’ve been on some form of lockdown more days and months this year than we weren’t, government ineptitude has reached new lows (which would be laughable if it wasn’t so damn tragic), and law enforcement has become ridiculous to the point that it’s actually scary. I rarely ever say anything on social media about my own misgivings and fears about what’s happening in this country (virtue signaling just isn’t my thing), but believe me when I say I’m aware and I’m furious. 


The Honda Civic Type R in UP Diliman




So I totally understand when people use snark and sarcasm, even more than they usually do. I get why people mock sincere expressions of affection or attempts to do good, as if there’s some sinister reason for all this altruism. I understand the popularity of scornful, derisive memes, and cutting, biting remarks on the comments section of every other news item. These days where the bad and the depressing often seemingly outnumber the good and the affirmative, cynicism has become almost like a universal language. 


And it’s not even just about what we see and hear in the news. It’s also within our own pockets of reality, like when you apply for internet connection and it takes months but you don’t hear from them until you call them out publicly. Or when you make an unwise financial decision and you can’t do anything to make it right until it’s too late. Or when you put your faith on someone and they turn out to be a disappointment. Get screwed over enough times and pretty soon, you’re speaking the same language—cynical-ese.


Out for a quick bike ride




But, as I’ve learned in the past, it helps to be aware of something rather than blindly trudging on and having somebody else call you out on it. When I find myself sounding too snarky and sarcastic—heck, as soon as I start getting these ideas in my head—I stop. Not to the point of being ignorant or naïve (you need to keep a smidgen of critical thought, after all), but just enough to realize that these are all nonconstructive, and, as Conan said, “doesn’t lead anywhere.” 


At this age, and after the year we’ve been through, what I’ve come to realize is that it’s pointless to engage in arguments with people who immediately place themselves above everybody else by the mere fact that they’re voicing their opinions; there’s an automatic assumption that they are correct and the other side is wrong. Because, when you think about it, the most cynical among us are those who think of themselves smarter, more eloquent, simply better than everybody else. 


And that’s definitely not me. Not for as long as I can help it. 


Watch Conan’s commencement speech to the 2011 graduating class of Dartmouth here 



Wednesday, July 8, 2020

Casual Affairs - A Novella by Paul John Caña (Prologue)


In 2014, I attended a four-week writing workshop facilitated by Jessica Zafra. The "final" was to come up with our own novel, or at least, a solid idea for one. It took me a few months, but I eventually finished mine, one of only a handful in the class to turn in something. It's not actually a full novel, so I'm calling it a novella. I've since read and re-read it a few times over the years and still think it's not completely horrible. 

I posted the prologue for that novella once before, but the URL has since disappeared off the face of the internet. So here it is again, for my enjoyment and yours, if you care to take the time to read it. Maybe someday I'll have the courage to post the full thing, or even get it published. Who knows?


===========================================================================


CASUAL AFFAIRS

By Paul John Caña




“What is friendship? The hangover’s faction

The gratis talk of outrage

Exchange by vanity, inaction

Or bitter shame of patronage” 

- Alexander Pushkin

  

“When people show you who they are, believe them.”

- Maya Angelou



PROLOGUE

The affair had been going on for six months. The woman's name was Sarah. From the earliest emails, I gathered she was an old high school classmate of Joey. Sandwiched between an advertisement for penile implants and an announcement of winning an online lottery, I found the first message, with the subject line titled simply, “Hey.” 

“Joey Aguila?” I read. “From Concepcion High School? This is Sarah De Guzman. Can't believe I'd find you here on LinkNet after all these years. If you're the Joey Aguila I know, drop me a line. I'll know it's you if you can tell me the name of that old store right outside our campus where we used to buy hopia and Coke. If not, don't bother replying, and sorry to waste your time. Sarah.” There was a smiley at the end of the message, rather, a winking smiley: ;)

Apparently, it didn't take long for Joey to respond. The next message, “Re: Hey,” carried Joey's enthusiastic reply. 

“Are you kidding? How can I forget Tingting's Sari-Sari store?” The usual niceties followed: “How are you?” What are you doing now?” Is that you in your profile photo? I thought it was Anne Curtis!” Joey went on to describe an extremely condensed version of his life in three sentences: the job (“I'm Senior Development Manager at a financial consultancy company in Makati”), the wife (“Been married for six years!”), the kids (“Hector's four, Cassandra is two”). At the top of the thread was Sarah's response, expressing her “delight” at having found a “dear friend” on the social networking website. The next few emails, all carrying the subject title “Re: Hey,” were pretty banal: they covered old classmates, current preoccupations, job complaints. And then there was the inevitable invitation to meet face to face.

“How about lunch?” Sarah wrote. “Your office isn't that far away from mine. Call or text me anytime.” She ended with her mobile phone number. 

I had to scan through dozens of other messages before I found the next message from Sarah, about three weeks after the last one. There was no subject title.

“Just wanted to say thanks again for dinner last night,” she wrote. “It was great. And the other thing, too.” There was the winking smiley again. “Hope there wasn't any trouble afterwards. It was pretty late. Next time, dinner's on me.” And yet another winking smiley. I clicked on the Sent Messages folder, scanned through the dates and found what I was looking for. 

“I'll hold you to that,” Joey wrote. “Nah, my wife's used to me coming home really late. I could've been out all night and she wouldn't have said anything. She doesn't say much to me these days. We're pretty much all talked out at this point. But I don't want to bore you with all of that. I'll see you soon. Love, Joey.”

The last message from Sarah was dated only about two weeks before the accident. “Joey, I am forwarding our e-tickets to Tagbilaran. I can't wait for this trip.  Only three weeks to go. Finally, just the two of us. Love, Sarah.”

I leaned back on my chair as I read the last message. I stared at the wall past the laptop, trying to come to grips with everything I had just learned. Joey and I have been friends since freshman year in university. I had never heard him speak about this Sarah before, not since we became friends and certainly not after they had reconnected six months ago. I felt hurt that he chose to keep that secret from me, and wondered what else about him I didn't know. And then I felt guilty. I violated my friend's privacy and discovered something about him that would forever haunt me. I listened to the steady tic-toc of the clock on my desk and regarded the pile of books that lay next to the open laptop. Although I was looking, I wasn't really seeing anything. My mind had filled with images of my friend and his wife and kids, and then of this mysterious woman. I wasn't sure what to make of the information, and was even less sure if I should share it with anyone.

*****

The casket was the wrong color. That was the first thing I noticed as soon as I stepped into the viewing room. Joey hated white. I couldn't remember ever seeing him wear it. Said it was too easily dirtied. And yet there he was about to spend eternity in a blinding white box. He would've loved the irony, if it had happened to somebody else. I surveyed the room. People were milling about, conversing in hushed tones. I saw Renee sitting on one of the front pews and went over to her. She was dressed in a black roundneck t-shirt and black jeans. Her long dark hair was pulled back in a ponytail, with wisps escaping on the sides. As she turned her head I caught her eyes: they were swollen and dark, like somebody punched her. She saw me and attempted a smile. She stood up and we hugged. For a while we didn't say anything. It felt like hours. I felt a lump in my throat but shrugged it off and gently let Renee go.

“Hey,” I said. “Uh...” I had no idea what to say next.

“I'm fine,” she said, sensing my uncertainty. “Thanks for coming.”

“Of course.” I reached out again and found her shoulder. There were a dozen things I could have said. I could've made a joke about how Joey always said he'd done everything—like go parasailing, get married or buy a car—before me, so it was typical of him to be, well, himself. I could've asked about the kids, though I could see little Cassie asleep in the arms of an older woman, probably an aunt or something. Or I could've made up some meaningless drivel about how things happen for a reason and that God takes the good ones first or some shit like that that people often spew on occasions like this. In the end I just went with what I really wanted to say to Renee.

“If you need anything, just let me know.”

“Thanks,” she said. “I appreciate that.”

Just then a group of people in suits and ties came in. Renee and I both looked and I nodded to her that it was okay. She gave me that smile again as she went over to the new arrivals.

I stood rooted at the spot, unsure of what to do next. I didn't see anyone else I knew, and I wasn't sure I wanted to go over to the casket. The viewing area was tiny; it was one of about twenty rooms at the funerary place along Araneta Avenue. Renee had said they were hoping to transfer to a bigger room as soon as one was available. Too many dead people, I thought as I finally moved and made my way towards the back. An assortment of cookies and nuts in plastic wrappers, styrofoam and plastic cups, and sandwiches wrapped in napkins were spread on a small table. A water dispenser stood next to it. I stared at the dirty orange rag that lay on the floor, soaked from the liquid that missed the cups. I started to pick up a small pack of nuts when I heard somebody call my name.

“I thought that was you,” a female voice said. I turned around and recognized Lisa, whom everybody called Lee. She was with someone, a guy who looked vaguely familiar. I decided he was probably the boyfriend. I gave Lee a hug.

“I don’t think you’ve ever met David,” she said. 

“Hey, nice to meet you,” I said and shook his hand. “When did you guys arrive in Manila?” 

“This morning,” Lee answered. “I'm still a bit dazed.” 

“Yeah I know what you mean.”

Lee didn't look that much different from when Joey and I first met her our senior year in college. We both tried to date her but it became obvious rather quickly that she was much too good for us. We all liked the same things: greasy, smoky bars with bands that played good music, cheap beer and cheaper smokes; we became fast friends. 

“How's Renee doing?” she asked as we squeezed ourselves into a corner.

“Seems to be holding up.” I glanced over at Renee talking to the suits across the room.

“Excuse me, I'm just gonna go outside for a smoke,” David said. He moved towards the door.

“How are you doing?” I said to Lee, emphasizing the “you.”

“Oh you know me. Same old, same old.” She gave me a shrug and a forced, forlorn smile, like one a talent show runner-up gave to her parents when she broke the news that she didn't win. “Thanks for asking.” I decided against pursuing it. Lee would have probably opened up and told me about it, but at that moment, I didn't think I could handle any form of stress heavier than soggy peanuts. I put the pack I was holding back on the table. Lee and I moved on to the small talk, which was surprisingly breezy. She was based in Singapore and Joey and I hadn't seen her in over five years. We did the usual roll call of old classmates, where they were and what they were doing. It felt good just to talk to her, and for a while, I forgot about our friend lying in a nice suit in a white box at the front of the room. 

*****

I wasn't exactly sure what made me do it. Renee might have mentioned something about looking for important messages in Joey's e-mail, and I kind of figured I was trying to help her. In the end, and I hated to admit it, I was probably just bored. I was in my condo one night a few days after the accident, looking in my hard drive through old photographs of Joey and our college barkada.

I knew Joey's email addresses, of course. He had two, the first was for work, and the second was a web-based address he's had since college. I typed in the URL for the web-based email. 

USERNAME:

PASSWORD:

I stared at the screen. I moved the mouse and placed the cursor above the space for username. I clicked the mouse and typed in Joey’s.

What am I doing?! I asked myself. I was hacking into my dead friend's email address and I couldn't think of a reason why. I was acutely aware that this was a gross violation of privacy, but I tried to rationalize it by telling myself Joey was dead and that he'd hardly mind if I took a peek into his private email. When people died 20, 30 years ago, the letters they left behind were tangible. More sensitive correspondence was folded and locked away in some secret drawer or old shoebox hidden under the bed or on the top cabinet of the closet. These days, handwritten letters are a rarity. I couldn't remember the last time I got anything in the mail, other than bills. Then I wondered how many people die everyday and how much of their lives they put online. 

The cursor kept blinking. PASSWORD.

I thought about Joey. The first time we met was during registration, when we were in line for a class we both wanted to take. I was the clueless boy from Cavite and he was the self-assured, city-bred know-it-all. He was tall and gangly to my short and pudgy. Over the years we eventually evened out; I hit my growth spurt later that year, and thanks to swimming and athletics, lost the baby fat I'd had all throughout high school, while he put on a few pounds of muscle working out and playing basketball for the university varsity team. He and Renee met during one of their games. They've been inseparable ever since. The marriage came a couple of years after graduation. I was his best man.

“Dude when are you gonna stop screwing around and just settle down already?” he would tell me not a few times during our regular drinking sessions. “People crack jokes about being married but I don't get it. I love being married.  I love my wife. I love our kids. I love my life. You should start thinking about getting in on it, too.”

“Not everyone's as damn lucky as you, asshole,” I would shoot back.

Joey would just shrug his shoulders and take another swig from his beer bottle. “What can I say? Fate smiles upon Joey Aguila.”

*****

The call came past eleven o'clock one Tuesday night. I was just settling into bed and had the TV on to one of those late night American talk shows. The monologue was just starting and the host was cracking a joke about some aging Hollywood actress when my mobile phone beeped. It was Renee.

“Hey, what's up?” I said.

There was silence on the other end, then I could hear a faint whimpering. “It's...It's Joey. We're at the hospital.”

I sat up and turned the TV off. The neighbor's dog was barking loudly again and I willed it to burst into flames. “What's wrong? Tell me what happened.”

“We don't know yet.” I could hear the strain in Renee's voice and could feel her trying very hard to rein in her emotions.  “He...he was driving and got into an...an accident.”

“Okay hang on. I'll be right there.” I asked her which hospital then hung up. 

As I changed into jeans and the first t-shirt I could get my hands on, I was strangely calm. It couldn't be that bad, I kept telling myself. He probably had a bit too much to drink, although in all the years Joey and I have communed over beers, I've never known him to have any problems driving afterwards. I grabbed my keys and headed downstairs, locked the door of my unit behind me and half-ran to the elevator. I pressed the down button and waited. He probably has a sprained leg or a banged-up head or something, I thought. I'd punch him in the side and kid him for being distracted by that sexy new billboard of that actress in her underwear on EDSA. We'll have a good laugh about it after. The elevator came and it was empty. I pressed B2 and spent the next 30 seconds wondering what sort of condition Joey was in.

When the elevator doors parted I walked the short distance to where my car was parked, jumped into it and drove off. Traffic was light and I was in the hospital in less than 30 minutes. Renee was sitting by herself in the emergency room waiting area. She was in a red button-up blouse, jeans and flip flops. Busy nurses and doctors with their stethoscopes and charts walked past her. She remained motionless in her seat, arms crossed on her chest, eyes staring straight ahead. I walked up to her and it took her a moment to recognize me. She got up to hug me and I felt her shaking. 

“He...he's gone.”

*****

I tried the most likely possibilities for Joey's password. His birthday, the names of his kids, his wife's name, his favorite NBA team, even the word “password.” I tapped my finger on the mouse, wrinkled my eyebrows and pursed my lips. This is crazy, I thought. 

After a few more tries, I noticed the question just underneath the PASSWORD line on the screen. “Forgot your password?” it said in red letters, like an assistant whose offer of help I kept ignoring. I clicked on it and it took me to a page with a password recovery question. “Who do I miss most?” I couldn't help but grin.

Joey was an only child and was therefore a bit of a brat. He always insisted on getting his way every time, all the time. We'd meet for drinks at this out-of-the-way place because, according to him, the “beer was ice cold and the waitresses were red hot.” He'd talk to me about issues in his office and complain about how everyone, most of all his bosses, was a complete idiot. He'd always have somebody do everything for him—an assistant at the office, the help at home, anyone he could pay off to do the simplest and most menial tasks. Despite this occasional tendency to place his needs and wants above everybody else's, I've always known him to be empathetic and generous. He volunteered once a month to a group that organizes feeding programs in depressed communities, he subsidized the tuition of the family laundrywoman's daughter who goes to a college in Ilocos Norte, and I knew for a fact he spoiled his wife and children rotten. My friend was a pretty solid, upstanding, sensitive guy. And I missed him. 

I was counting on this goody-goody side of Joey when I started typing a response to the password recovery question. We've been friends for almost 15 years and I thought I had a pretty good idea of who he was and what he was like. The answer came to me instantly.

BADGER.

It was the name of the golden retriever he had when he was a kid. He told me about it in one of our usual night outs laced with alcohol. “Badger because she was a bad girl,” Joey explained. There were no siblings to play with when he was growing up, so Badger filled that role in Joey's life. She died of old age right around the time her owner graduated from high school. Somehow, I never forgot the name, partly because I, too, had always wanted but never had a pet dog, but mostly because it was one of those rare times when Joey got all quiet when he was talking about it. “We never had another dog after Badger died,” he said. “She was pretty special.” 

“Change your password now?”

I typed in the most generic password I could think of.

“Password1234”

“Your password has been changed.”

I went back to the email home screen and clicked on Inbox. I felt curious, exhilarated, shameful, and disgusted all at once. What had come over me that I would hack into my best friend's email so soon after he died? I attempted to conjure thoughts and words to justify my actions. While none, I felt, sufficed, I was already scrolling down the messages. Soon, the guilt began to occupy a lesser place in my conscience, and in its place were the beginnings of an appetite to learn more about my departed friend.

*****

I noticed a policeman talking to one of the doctors. I turned to Renee; little puddles were starting to form in her eyelids, threatening to escape and fall down her cheeks any second. The shaking had stopped, but she still seemed fragile. She hadn't uttered a single word after telling me Joey was gone. I didn't want to leave her but I wanted to know what happened. 

As I stood up and walked over to the officer, my mind suddenly flashed to images of Joey and Renee, and how I always thought of them as the perfect couple. They weren't overly affectionate towards each other in public, but they laughed at each other's jokes, used pet names when they thought nobody could hear them and were excellent parents to their kids. Renee used to come with us for drinks, but hung out with us less when Hector and Cassie came along. She was a beautiful woman and I always kidded Joey that he must have done something so spectacularly good to have gotten her to agree to be his wife. Joey always just smiled and said, “Yeah, I guess I got lucky.”

The policeman had one arm on his chest and one hand softly pinching his lips as he listened intently to the doctor. When I got to him, I heard the doctor say something about taking painkillers and getting some sleep. I was confused until I realized the policeman must have been asking about a personal medical issue.

“You think maybe it has something to do with this weird weather we've been having?” he asked the doctor. 

“Pardon me?” the doc said, his tone the equivalent of a raised eyebrow.

“You know. It rained for an hour this afternoon, but the sun was still shining. The ground was wet but it was still hot and humid. Nanay always said when that happens a pair of tikbalangs was getting married.” 

“And you think their marriage has something to do with your headaches?”

“Er, not exactly, but I've never had a headache this intense before.”

“That sounds like a migraine. Like I said, try a couple of Ibuprofens and a good night's sleep.”

At that point the doctor noticed my presence and gestured to me to the policeman. “I think he wants to talk to you. If there's nothing else, please excuse me, I have patients to see.” He didn't wait for an answer and walked away.

Officer Migraine turned to me, his hand moving from pinching his lip to scratching his chin. I introduced myself. “Sir do you know what happened to my friend Joey Aguila? He's the husband of that lady over there.” I pointed to Renee.

“Oh yeah. Accident happened this afternoon, around 5:30 PM. Head-on collision over at Commonwealth.” 

Commonwealth? I asked myself. Joey's office is in Makati. What was he doing in Quezon City on a work day? I kept my thoughts to myself and instead asked the cop why it took so long to bring Joey to the hospital. “His wife was notified at almost 11 p.m.,” I said. 

“I don't know. Probably took a while to find an “in case of emergency” contact number. He didn't have a wallet on him. Didn't find any identification in the car. We had to trace the owner through the license plate.” 

I looked over at Renee and saw that she hadn't moved. She was still staring straight ahead, as if in a trance, transfixed on a spot on the wall opposite her. 

“And you said it was a head-on collision?” I asked.

“Yeah. This truck was doing about 80 kilometers per hour, apparently lost control, swerved to the other side and went straight for the car your friend was driving.” He made a dramatic action with his hands: fist to palm in one quick punch. “It was pretty bad.” 

I couldn't take my eyes of Renee. She couldn't seem to take her eyes off the wall.

“And my friend? Joey?” I paused and swallowed the growing lump in my throat. “Did...ah...did he...I mean...Was it...” I trailed off.

“Like I said, it was pretty bad,” he said matter-of-factly. “The front of the truck smashed through and flattened the front of your friend's car.” He looked at me looking at Renee looking at the wall. “Sorry, but your friend was killed instantly.”

Saturday, June 13, 2020

Afternoon at the Park


 


Looking back at it now, several things stick out: the way that near-invisible dimple showed up on your right cheek when you smiled wide enough; the way the skin in your arms felt as I caressed it; how adorable you looked standing against those old houses; how I found myself staring at your face while you talked.

 

I was surprised at how many emotions I felt in one afternoon.

 

There was some trepidation, for sure. There’s always that when you’re meeting somebody for the first time. But I had to get past that quick because there was no doubt I was gonna go through with it—to finally see you in real life after weeks of torturing myself with best and worst-case scenarios.

 

And then there was anticipation—the thrill of knowing you were going to be there; nervousness—that first few minutes in the car when it suddenly dawned on me that this was really happening; the feeling of being relaxed and at ease—how easy and natural you made it all feel; joy—for bringing life to something as seemingly generic as a walk in the park; and several other things I’d like to keep to myself, but I suspect you already know.

 

When you told me that story of our “accidental” collaboration, I was intrigued. It was completely unexpected, and something I would’ve taken as a sign, if I believed in such things.

 

When I became aware of your politics, and how passionately you used your art to convey your beliefs, it wasn’t a turn-off. On the contrary, I admire how much of yourself you put out there; it’s something I could only wish for myself. (The fact that your stand on most issues align with mine is simply a happy bonus).

 

And when I realized you were funny—the kind of funny that had me chuckling at the glow of my phone at 2 a.m., and the kind of funny that made me suddenly go quiet and smile during lunch with the people in my household, making them question my sanity—that was a lightbulb moment, too. You’re quick-witted and acerbic—you could make a joke out of a corny pun as easily as a reference to a TV show or movie we both enjoyed. You’re the exact opposite of boring, and who wouldn’t want that?

 

These are all reasons for me to keep reaching for my phone and checking for new messages from you, but let me tell you when you had me: when we finally met and you turned out to be exactly who I thought you were—gentle, interesting, a little awkward, lovely company, and even cuter than you are in pictures.

 

I tested the waters and honestly wasn’t expecting much, but meeting you has been the highlight of my pandemic experience. You’re living proof that rewards await those who don’t give up.

 

I’m not sure what lies ahead, to be honest. I'm not even sure how you feel about me. But if that afternoon at the park is any indication, whatever happens is going to be amazing, meaningful and fun. And I can’t wait to see you again.


Thursday, April 9, 2020

Unforgettable South Africa

Me and Madiba


The sky is blue almost everywhere else on the planet, but in South Africa, somehow, the hue is more pronounced. My first view of the outdoors after clearing immigration and passing through the double doors of the OR Tambo International Airport in Johannesburg was of a cloudless, deep cerulean sky that was dazzling in its intensity. It was a fitting welcome to a country and a continent that I was visiting for the very first time.

First photograph of South Africa, just outside the airport in Johannesburg


“The first Europeans arrived in South Africa in 1652,” said the guide, a pleasant old chap named Hendrick. Humans, of course have inhabited the lands in and around the southern tip of the African continent for hundreds of thousands of years. In fact, some of the oldest archaeological evidence of the existence of people anywhere in the world is in Gauteng province, leading to the area being nicknamed the Cradle of Humankind.

As the bus traversed the plains of Johannesburg en route to Sun City, Hendrick mouthed off a few more facts about South Africa: the population stands at 54 million, it was the Dutch East India company that established the first European settlement near Cape Town, and that there are 11 officially recognized languages in the country.

“The Flemish language was the basis for communication,” the guide said. “It was called ‘kitchen language’ because it was often spoken behind closed doors. Dutch was the official language in the beginning, but settlers from other European countries like Germans, British and Russians  assimilated themselves and the language was later called Afrikaans, which is a mixture of Dutch-Flemish plus other languages.”

Melman wanted a selfie. How could I say no?


How many times can you pet lion cubs in your lifetime? 


About two hours later Sun City appeared on the horizon, like a mirage rising out of the basalt soil plains surrounding the Pilanesberg, an extinct volcano that last erupted millions of years ago. Home for the evening was the Palace of the Lost City, a sprawling luxury casino and resort considered the crown jewel of Sun City. The place inspired wonder and awe like any multi-million dollar resort property in the middle of the African plains would. There’s a pool with a sandy beach, a maze, and a bridge that simulates an earthquake every hour. It was the base upon which the group set off to explore the adjacent Pilanesberg Game Reserve very early the next morning.


My room in the Palace of the Lost City


Took a walk around the property. I kinda still like this photo. 


Sun City is a fancy resort and casino in Johannesburg


The grand staircase and lobby of the Palace of the Lost City


“Much of the world’s platinum, about 80 percent, is mined from around this area,” the guide said onboard the 4X4 vehicle especially outfitted for game drives. Opened in 1979, the Pilanesberg Game Reserve was an old farmland that became the site of the world’s biggest relocation of animals since Noah’s Ark. “Operation Genesis involved transferring over 6000 animals throughout 58,000 hectares of lush plains and valleys,” said Hendrick. “Now there are about 10,000 animals here.” 

Any apprehensions about not seeing any animals immediately vanished as one by one, they appeared: impalas, antelopes, zebras, giraffes, lions, hippopotamuses and elephants. There was even a slight traffic jam when a herd of elephants blocked the road as they lazily fed on trees and bushes. For someone who grew up in the concrete jungle of a big city, it was a scene straight out of a childhood dream.  


Elephant traffic jam


Like a boss


Me in the plains of Africa


One interesting fact about South Africa is that it does not currently have just one capital city. The headquarters of the three branches of government are located in three cities: executive in Pretoria, judiciary in Blomfontein, and legislative in Cape Town. 

Pretoria was the next stop in the journey. About three hours drive from Johannesburg, the city developed rather quickly in the 1850s when government and church leaders decided to open a church in what used to be bush country. Today the city is also nicknamed the City of Jacarandas for the roughly 155,000 jacaranda trees that line its streets and avenues. Similar to the chery blossoms of Japan, the trees lend the city a magical, fairy-tale like atmosphere when they bloom in October and November.


Pretty jacaranda trees

Larger-than-life Nelson Mandela


There was time for a quick stop at the Union building, where the main attraction was a nine-meter tall bronze statue of South Africa’s most famous son, Nelson Mandela. Inaugurated just a couple of weeks after the democracy icon’s death in 2012, the statue stands in the same place where Madiba (Mandela’s nickname) was inaugurated as the country’s first democratically elected president in 1994.

The two-hour flight to Cape Town via South African Airways was pleasant and breezy. It was already dark when the plane touched down, so there was only a ghostly silhouette of the city’s famed Table Mountain. The grand view had to wait until morning. 

The guide, whose name was Muhammad Ali, also shared interesting information about the city he calls home. “Inhabited by 4.5 million people, Cape Town is about four and a half times bigger than Singapore,” he said. “It was the Portuguese explorer Bartholomew Diaz who first reached the Cape Of Good Hope, although back then his men called it the Cape of Storms. Years later, the King of Portugal told Vasco Da Gama, ‘If you can successfully pass these stormy waters, you have a good hope of making it to India.’”


I forgot the name of our first hotel in Cape Town, but the lighting sure was memorable


Bucket list moment


There is a marker that now stands in the craggy hills of the Cape of Good Hope, advising visitors that they have reached the most southwesterly point of the African continent. North across the lookout is Cape Point, a promontory with a spectacular view of wild, restless sea. It has been said that this is where two mighty oceans meet—the Atlantic and Indian—but experts have said that it is only the former that one sees. Still, the view here is nothing short of breathtaking, with white sea foam that forms when waves slam into dark cliffs, and waters the color of emerald stone that turn to deep, dark blue farther out into the horizon.


Took a while to get up here

But the views were worth it

Wanted to stay longer


If Johannesburg is rough, uneven and dynamic, Cape Town is its more laidback, well-mannered and gorgeous sister. Nicknamed Mother City, it was named best place in the world to visit in 2014 by The New York Times, and for good reason. There is an air of gentility and warmth here as one walks its streets, its people always ready with a genuine smile. A quick excursion to one of its bars revealed a lively nightlife scene comparable to any other big city.


Had time to visit a colony of penguins


So cute


Here I am at a beach in Cape Town


Seals sunning themselves on an island just off the coast of Cape Town


Marga and I were the only two Filipinos on the trip


Just goofing off


Watching over the city is Table Mountain, which Ali said is actually a mountain range.  Formed over 270 million years ago, its presence is akin to having a world wonder on the doorstep every single day. “The mountain range has more flowers per square area than any other place on earth,” Ali said. It is possible to go up Table Mountain through a cable car, with a rotating floor that provides everyone inside 360-degree aerial views of the city. 


Making it to the top of Table Mountain in Cape Town was one of the most unforgettable travel moments of my life, and I made sure to write down a few thoughts while I was there


View of the city from the top of Table Mountain


A sea of clouds


I'll never forget this experience


So here's another angle



One of the most spectacular sunsets I've ever been fortunate to witness in my entire life. It's still the cover photo on my Facebook after all these years


Once on top, it is difficult to overstate the beauty and majesty of the landscape. The blue sky was beginning to give way to deep orange and amber and the setting sun bathed everything in a kind of glow that made believing in the existence of a Higher Being  much easier. This was the Cape Town, and indeed, the South Africa that sticks most in my memory: a kaleidoscope of shapes and colors that can be found nowhere else in the world.


Went to a dinner and show later that night. Of course I got recruited to perform onstage


My friend from Manila Erwin and his wife were there in Cape Town the same time we were so we headed out to experience South African nightlife


Went to this bar somewhere in the city. Everything's a blur now. I must've been exhausted that day


Breakfast with a view of Table Mountain


Last photo. I would love to come back to South Africa

This is a slightly edited version of a story that originally came out in Lifestyle Asia magazine in 2015.