Lübeck, Germany: Like A Fairy Tale

This story first appeared in the December 2011 issue of Lifestyle Asia magazine

 

The city of Lübeck enchants visitors with its medieval architecture and mouthwatering marzipan

Written and photographed by Paul John Caña

The Holstentor welcomes visitors to the UNESCO World Heritage town of Lübeck

One of the iron lions in front of the Holstentor

It is possible to circle the Altstadt or old town of Lübeck within a few short hours. The historic city center of the northern German city—the second largest in Schleswig-Holstein state—is an island completely surrounded by the Trave River. The area is compact enough for a leisurely walk that offers visitors a unique glimpse into a town that has existed since the 15th century. Residents have, in fact, posted signs proclaiming it as a “place of short distances.” Even without its status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the town’s long and proud merchant and maritime history, monuments that have survived the test of time, and its incomparable, mouthwatering marzipan, all make Lübeck one of the most fascinating yet underrated towns in all of Germany.

My German friend Marc accompanied me on this trip. Here he is trying to figure out where we're going

Poffertjes are like mini pancake balls, perfect for snacking while sightseeing

Typical architecture in this part of Germany

Most visitors arrive in Lübeck through Hamburg, which is only a 40-minute train ride away. Both cities were members of the Hanseatic League, a powerful organization that monopolized trade in the Baltics and Northern Europe in the 13th to the 17th centuries. It was Lübeck, though, that was nicknamed “Queen of the Hanse,” as it served as the capital of the trade alliance for several centuries. 

The most iconic image of Lübeck is also the first structure tourists see on the approach to the old town. The Holstentor is the most significant town gate of the late Middle Ages in Germany, and is the only one still standing in the city today (apart from the less majestic Citadel Gate or Burgtor, in the northern part of town). Its twin pointy-roofed circular tower tilting together across a steeped gable once graced the 50 Deutschemark note. 

Constructed between 1464 to 1478 by Architect Himrich Helmstede, the Holstentor is made in the Brick Gothic style and has been heavily restored through the years. Two reclining lions made of iron act as sentinels just in front of a grassy field facing the gate, which now houses a museum. Once in danger of being torn down, the Holstentor has become a symbol of the city, its likeness present in many Lübeck companies’ trademarks. Inscribed on the gate, visible to everyone making their way inside the city proper, is the Latin phrase “concordia domi, foris pax,” which roughly translates to “harmony within, peace abroad.”

How could I resist?

A plaza in Lübeck

Lübeck was one of the first cities hit by Allied forces during the Second World War. Many of the original structures in the city were destroyed or damaged during the assault. Like many other cities in Germany, reconstruction happened gradually over the years. A stroll down the main street of the Altstadt reveals old buildings beside gleaming new shopping centers and restaurants, a symbol of an increasingly progressive city. 

Those looking for the city’s old town charm, however, need only walk in the direction of the Markt (marketplace) in front of the city’s Rathaus (town hall), where medieval architecture is the main draw. The towering Marienkirche or St. Mary’s Church, supposedly the country’s third biggest, overlooks the plaza. A small marker on one side says it was built between 1260 and 1350 and became a model for many other large churches in the Baltic region. The church was completely destroyed in 1942 but restoration work was undertaken soon after and was completed in 1959.

The Gotteskeller is a popular restaurant and bar in Lübeck

There are 7 churches in Lübeck. This one is St. Mary's, if I'm not mistaken. It is the third biggest church in Germany

Beside the Marienkirche is a curious-looking statue of the devil sitting on a huge slab of stone. Townsfolk tell the story of how, when construction first began, the devil thought the people were building a wine bar. He liked the idea because many souls had found their way to him after visiting such a place. He disguised himself as a regular man and helped the workers. 

Eventually he realized what the structure was going to be and, in his anger, picked up a boulder to smash the walls already standing. A man implored him to spare the church and promised to build a wine bar somewhere else. The devil was pleased and set the stone down, where it rests to this day. Just opposite the church, the townsfolk did build a wine cellar in the town hall.

Me and the devil, hanging out

There's something creepy about a little girl playing with the statue of the devil

Apart from St. Mary’s, six other church steeples dominate the skyline. This has led to Lübeck being nicknamed “City of the Seven Spires.” Two other must-visits are St. Catherine’s, with impressive terra cotta figures gazing down at pedestrians, and, further downtown, the Lübeck Cathedral, with its twin towers that reach up almost 400 feet into the sky. The other churches are St. Jacob’s, Sacred Heart, St Giles and St. Peter’s.

Impressive terra cotta statues adorn the side of St. Catherine's Church

Marc is dwarfed by St. Catherine's Church

The town has connections to three Nobel Prize winners. Thomas Mann, who won the Literature prize in 1929, was born here in 1875, while Günter Grass, a fellow Literature laureate, is a current resident. Both have houses dedicated to them in Lübeck. The third Nobel Prize winner is Willy Brandt, a German statesman who won the Nobel Peace Prize in 1971. His childhood home is now a museum that stands just behind the Marienkirche.

Quick rest stop

Corner of King Street and Dog Street, with the library that way

One other thing Lübeck is famous for is marzipan, a decadent confection made primarily with sugar and ground almonds. The most famous producer in town, and perhaps the world, is Café Niederegger, which has been in continuous operation for over 200 years. The flagship store near the town center is stocked with marzipan of every imaginable shape and size and is always filled with tourists looking to take some of the sweet treats back home as souvenirs. There is a small museum dedicated to the history of marzipan on the second floor. 

Niederegger has almost become synonymous with marzipan

They've been making marzipan treats for over 200 years

My first taste of chocolate-covered Niederegger marzipan

It is not uncommon to see tourists continuing their exploration of the town with a chocolate-covered marzipan in hand. Part of the charm in walking the streets of Lübeck is the discovery of secret courtyards and winding walkways. The brick houses and cobblestone streets combine to create a sense of jumping back in time, to days long gone. A small alleyway, for instance, can lead visitors from a quiet churchyard to the banks of the Trave River, where residents often spread picnic blankets on the grass to enjoy the vestiges of an idyllic autumn afternoon.

Lübeck Cathedral

Hanging out by the Trave River

A serene snapshot of a typical Lübeck afternoon

Park yourself by the river with some drinks and watch the world go by

Because the river surrounds the town, visitors who follow its meandering course will invariably end up back at the Holstentor. When evening falls, the town takes on an even more fairy-tale like atmosphere, with strategically placed lights that illuminate the gate, inviting guests to experience the magic of Lübeck once more. 

The Holstentor all lit up at night

Marc offering me more of those yummy Niederegger marzipan chocolates

We ended a perfect day with this. But of course.

One Day In Prague

This story first appeared in a 2010 issue of Lifestyle Asia Travel magazine 

Written and photographed by Paul John Caña

Additional photos by Eltaf Najafizada

My first glimpse of Prague was at night. Inside a rented Opel Astra, I drove myself and four other adventurers (one each from Afghanistan, Indonesia, Azerbaijan and India) on a weekend lark to explore the Czech capital. We left Berlin at 8 p.m., hearts racing at the thought of contributing our footprints on the streets of what has often been described as one of the most beautiful cities on earth.  Four and half hours later, bleary eyed but in good spirits, we pulled into the city. It was practically deserted; the main thoroughfare was quiet, with only a few passing cars and the occasional drifter and inebriated partygoer. We paid a taxi driver to lead us into our hotel and wearily crawled into bed. The adventure had to wait.

The Prague National Museum bathed in afternoon light

St. Wenceslas, patron saint of Bohemia

We woke to a clear summer's day. The sky was a deep cobalt, and the streets were slowly coming to life. After a breakfast of toast and eggs, we set out to explore the city. The plan was to find a place to park the Astra and explore what we could on foot. We found one right across the National Museum adjacent to the statue of St. Wenceslas, a former king and patron saint of Bohemia. Lined with offices, shopping boutiques, hotels, souvenir shops and restaurants, St. Wenceslas Square is a commercial and cultural hub in the city. A palpable energy emanated from the place: it was as if the city knew it was our first time and was eager to show us what she's got.

Me with Diana (Azerbaijan), Reva (Indonesia), and Surbhi (India)

Surbhi, Eltaf (Afghanistan) and me

Battling the summer tourist crowds

Further along, towards the far end of the boulevard, we saw a sinister-looking dark structure. This centuries-old guard tower welcomes visitors to the Stare Mesto  (Old Town). Tourists in their summer get-up (walking shorts, sandals-and-socks, fannypack and a digital camera attached to their wrists) occupied almost every available space; it was the peak of summer and it seemed like every conceivable country was represented in the thick mass of humanity that congregated in the city that day. 

Along the colorful rows of more souvenir shops, little cafes and restaurants, street performers fiddled with their violins, pounded on their drums, and stroked their guitars. An upturned hat sat in front of each group of merry musicmakers, a gentle appeal for each passersby's generosity. We trudged on ahead and were rewarded with a sight nothing short of amazing.

The guard tower serves as the entrance to Stare Mesto or Old Town

A shopkeeper selling souvenirs

It's impossible not to get all giddy when you're surrounded by all this majesty

History books (and Internet sites) place the founding of Prague in the 10^th century, when settlements first appeared on the banks of the Vltava River. Over 1000 years later, the Starometske nametski or Old Town Square still thumps with life and remains to be the very heart of Prague. All five of us (and most other first timers, I suspect) could not contain swoons, sighs and gasps at the magnificence laid out before us: the imposing tower of Town Hall on one end, the Gothic façade of the Tynsky chram (Church of Our Lady of Tyn) on the other, various other architectural marvels all around and a monument to the Czech martyr Jan Hus near the center. The entire place exuded romance and history. Despite the flurry of activity from tourists, musicians, performance artists, shopkeepers and more tourists, it was hard not to be moved by the glorious assembly of such towering monuments to culture and heritage all in one place.

Old Town square, with a monument to Czech martyr Jan Hus in the center

Lovers in Prague

While the fellows from Indonesia and Afghanistan chose to take a breather from all that sightseeing, my friends from Azebaijan and India joined me in paying the entrance fee to go up on the viewdeck of Town Hall. From here, it was easy to see how Prague earned the nickname “City of One Hundred Spires.” The orange rooftops of the city broken by towers and turrets made for a mesmerizing sight. The twin gables of the Tynsky chram are also more striking at this height. We could have stayed there for hours, but by this time, the sun was past the highest point in the sky, and our stomachs reminded us of much-needed sustenance. We shared lunch with fellow globetrotters al fresco at a restaurant just off the number one tourist destination in the entire city.

Tynsky Chram towers above the roofs of Old Town Square

The roofs of Prague, with Prague Castle in the distance

The Astronomical Clock features an hourly show of the Walk of the Apostles

Surbhi and Diana enjoying the sights

Charles bridge, I would find our later, was built in 1357 by King Charles IV.  It is perhaps the most visited attraction in Prague, and for good reason. Steeped in a colorful and often violent history, the stone bridge connects the Old Town with Mala Strana (Lesser Town) and is watched over by 30 statues and statuaries of saints and religious figures. With Prague Castle visible in the distance, the beauty and romance of one of the world’s most recognizable bridges is inescapable.

View of the Vltava River and Prague Castle from Charles Bridge

The statues on Charles Bridge are actually replicas; the originals are housed in a museum

Our one and only photo all together. I miss these guys.

It took us over an hour to reach the end of Charles Bridge towards the side of Mala Strana, partly because of a thick “tourist jam” and partly because we kept stopping to take snapshots. On the Mala Strana side of the Vltava River, a short hike led us finally up to Prague Castle. Fatigue instantly vanished when we were faced with the grand gate of the castle complex. Past two huge stone statues of Titans vanquishing their enemies, we craned our necks to see the jaw-dropping façade of the St. Vitus Cathedral, the most important church in the Czech Republic. Work on the cathedral began in the 14^th century and took all of 600 years, with the finishing touches not completed until 1929. 

The entrance to Prague Castle

St. Vitus Cathedral is the most important church in the Czech Republic

The impressive interior of St. Vitus Cathedral

Intricate stained glass inside the Cathedral

Inside, the afternoon sun streamed through intricate stained glass, casting a colorful glow on the cavernous interior. Bohemian kings rest in tombs within the cathedral. The Czech Crown Jewels are also supposedly kept somewhere in the premises, behind a door with seven locks whose keys are held by seven of the most prominent individuals of the Czech Republic, including the President, the Prime Minister and Archbishop of Prague. Two art galleries inside the cathedral house a collection of priceless Czech art. There is also a lavish chapel dedicated to “Good King” Wenceslas, whose statue we first laid eyes on in the square that bears his name at the beginning of our Prague sojourn.

Taking a break and chatting with a Pakistani family

My friends

Legs weary and eyes almost popping out with the wealth of cultural and historical treasures spread out before us, we finally decided to call it a day. After a quick tour in the castle courtyards and one last round of picture taking in the palatial grounds, we took a tram back to our starting point, St. Wenceslas Square. The sun was hanging low in the horizon when we pulled out of the parking lot to head back to Berlin. It was then that we felt Franz Kafka’s words ringing true. “Prague doesn’t let you go,” he said. “This little mother has claws.”

Me with the Opel Astra we drove from Berlin to Prague and back

Three Beach Trips

I’ve said it before, but it bears repeating: I’m grateful I live in a country blessed with so much natural beauty. Sure, I sometimes daydream about relocating to a city where insane traffic isn’t a foregone conclusion, where you don’t get woken up by six AM videoke sessions, and where there’s more to the weather than “hot” and “hotter.” But then I think about all the places here in the Philippines I have yet to visit and explore, and I stop complaining. I’m still glad I call this place home.

For any travel-phile, summer is self-explanatory. This year, I got a head start on the season. Some people plan their whole year around one summer excursion, but I was lucky enough to go to three beautiful beaches before Mr Sun started making his presence truly felt.

What made each trip different is the company. One I was on my own, the second I was with a close friend, and the third was with a huge group of people, composed of old friends and new acquaintances. I’m not really sure what the purpose of this blog entry is, other than to share my experiences (and photos) of those three beach trips. Maybe I also want to help people decide whether they’re more suited to traveling with a big group of people, with just one other companion, or alone. Having done all three within the span of four weeks, I guess you can take my word for it.

Trip Number One: Boracay

What else can you say about Boracay that hasn’t already been said? Nothing probably. But I’m going to write about this trip anyway, because I got to stay at a fancy resort on Station 1, with a good friend, in lovely beach weather. The thing about this trip was that we didn’t have anything planned. We were both pretty laidback, we didn’t want the stress of sticking to a schedule, and we had the luxury of doing whatever we thought about doing at that moment. This, to me, is the very definition of a vacation.

It helped that my friend was neither demanding nor a pushover. We decided on doing things together, whether it was hanging out in the room to watch Whiplash or Snowpiercer, heading over to D'Mall for dinner, or throwing a Frisbee around until sunset. Traveling with a friend is special because it's a memory you both will share for years to come. "Remember that time in Boracay..." is a conversation starter that will always have a certain cache.

Going on a trip with one other person will only work (read: not end in disaster) if you a) know each other well, and b) your personalities complement each other. Of course, when you get far enough into the planning that you actually find yourselves digging your toes in the sand together, there is a presumption of mutual trust and respect. You like each other well enough to spend time together in a new environment. And that’s always fun.

Trip Number 2: San Juan, La Union

It’s no secret that I like to drive. I think one of life’s greatest pleasures is getting behind the wheel of a nice car, play good music, and watch the world go by through a windshield. Road trips are my crack: it’s addicting and gets me high like nothing else can.

There are places other than home that just feels like, well, home. The beaches of San Juan, La Union are like that for me. I feel comfortable enough there that when I decided to go on a spur-of-the-moment drive, that’s where I ended up. It didn’t matter that no one was in the passenger seat. Oftentimes the only way to hear yourself is when nobody else is around.

Thanks to the new TPLEX, travel time to La Union has been drastically cut short: from over five hours to less than four. Except for a brief surf session (the waves weren’t cooperating), I pretty much spent the entire time there writing. If the view of the ocean, the sound of the waves and the warm afternoon sun doesn’t squeeze the creative juices out of you, then nothing else will.

Of course, solo travel is not for everyone. You have to like yourself a lot, and while that may seem like a no-brainer, it’s actually not that simple. Some people can’t handle being alone because it forces them to think about a lot of things. When they’re surrounded by other people all the time there is less pressure to confront more pressing, personal issues. Company offers escape. This is why I think going on the occasional trip by yourself is therapeutic as much as it is character-building.

Trip Number 3: Dinadiawan, Aurora

I wasn’t sure about the third beach trip. It was scheduled only a week after La Union and I was running low on funds (I was in between jobs). The fact that I said yes tells you just how much I love the beach. Besides, a friend extended the invitation and it was going to be with a big group, with people I already knew and others I was going to meet for the first time. And it was in Aurora. Which means: road trip.

I had never been to that province before, even though people always say Baler is a must-visit, especially for surfers and surfer-wannabes (like me). We left Manila an hour before midnight on Friday and finally made it to the beach resort at the crack of dawn. I know I said I like long drives, but almost six hours is excruciatingly long. For the first time I was actually glad to slide out of the driver’s seat and into a warm bed.

The beach itself was deserted and gorgeous. I spent much of the time reading and sleeping. In the afternoon we got in a game of Frisbee, where I worked up a sweat. The food was terrific and the company, even more so. It’s so easy to ruin a trip when you’re in a big group; all it takes is one selfish, inconsiderate party-pooper. Thankfully, there was none of that. Some were quieter than others, but everyone radiated good vibes. I thought the drive back would be long and boring, but thanks to creative videography (and Spotify), it turned out to be one of the most fun ever.

It’s been said that the best way to truly get to know someone is to travel with them. You discover stuff about them outside of the regular dynamics of your relationship. You either build lasting friendships because you find out more things you like about each other, or you never speak again because, well, apparently he’s a self-centered jerk or she's too much of a spoiled little princess. Either way, you always learn something new, and your life is all the more meaningful and richer for it.

And there you have it. Three beach trips in four weeks, ahead of the official summer 2015 season. Some people may take traveling for granted, but, really, it's what makes life infinitely more interesting. And, sometimes, bearable.